During World War II, thousands of refugees crossed the Pyrenees, taking advantage of the many mountain crossings that connect France and Catalonia. The ways of the Alt Empordà were the busiest due to the ease of passage that arise. Once in Spain they were detained in prisons and concentration camps until they were finally allowed to proceed to its destination.

Among the hundreds of refugees arrivals to Empordà, several of those had special significance. The most notable case is that of the German Jewish philosopher Walter Benjamin (1892-1940), because of the importance of character and the tragic circumstances surrounding his stay

Walter Benjamin, due the political and anti-Semitic persecution by the Nazis, was exiled in Paris. During the German occupation of France, fled to the south and arrived at Portbou, in 1940. There, he was taken by anguish, uncertainty and frustration caused by the spanish authorities' refusal to grant a visa to cross Spain and arrive in Lisbon, point of embarkation to the United States, his final destination.

Benjamin had come from Banyuls-sur-Mer and died at the inn França, 26 September 1940, at the age of 48 years. Is attributed as the cause of his suicide the spanish government's intention of returning him to France.

The circumstances after the death of Walter Benjamin have contributed to a certain mystification of his figure. Dr. Vila, who certified his death, he entered literally as 'Benjamin Walter', away from any Jewish connection and any kinship. Benjamin was buried so hasty in the catholic cemetery in the niche 563, which, for 5 years, it was paid by Henry Gurland. After five years, Walter Benjamin's human remains were deposited in a Portbou cemetery's common grave, honoring in this way, from unconsciousness, the memory of one who had said: 'The story is not just a story of the victors, rulers, the survivors, is primarily the story of the suffering of the world: These are the anonymous ones, who are deprived of the name and memory, those who support the story."

The Portbou cemetery was visited in October 1940 by the philosopher Hannah Arendt, a personal friend of Benjamin, who shortly afterwards wrote: 'The cemetery overlooking the bay, directly on the Mediterranean, is carved into the stone and slide it into cliff. It is one of the most fantastic and most beautiful sites I've seen in my life '

Today Portbou cemetery, visible from the Belitres mountain pass, and their immediate environment is part of Memorial Walter Benjamin.

The center of this site is the tombstone dedicated to Walter Benjamin erected in the cemetery. A plaque recalls the famous words of philosopher. The complex is surrounded by small stones, placed by people visiting the area. The stones are placed on a tombstone symbol of remembrance and respect in the Jewish culture. At the gates of the cemetery a second plate on the wall reminds the philosopher.

Dani Karavan

However, the element that most surprises visitors and offers an intimate reflection on exile and persecution of fascist regimes is the sculpture built by the Israeli artist Dani Karavan. The set, called Passages, is formed by a covered staircase that born next to the cemetery and down to almost touch the Mediterranean sea. A clear glass with a quote from Benjamin prevent visitors to get to the sea. The complex, high-quality aesthetic and evocative, is in good condition thanks to the intervention of local authorities..

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